south africa, the old and the new - charlotte wilks, travel consultant - africa & indian ocean

Travelling to South Africa is a rewarding experience. Many people come for the game viewing in the North East's Kruger region, some for the world-class wines in the South West. My travels definitely brought out the historian in me as I learned how the country has dramatically changed over the years.

Cape Town is the oldest city in South Africa. Ships from the Dutch East India Trading Company used to pass by the coastline in the night trying to navigate the rough Atlantic Ocean. Looking out for lighthouse pointers to indicate their position, they were able to dock safely and join in with the hustle of the tradesmen already onshore selling their goods at dawn. Today it is still a working harbour, but the waterfront is also home to chic shops, modern hotels and fancy yachts. It is a complete contrast to the times gone by, but it does somehow seem to fit in with this beautiful coastal region. People from all over the world come to Cape Town to enjoy a more laidback pace of life; for them (and for me) there was nothing like joining in with the locals.

North of Cape Town is one of the most famous of all South Africa's regions - the Winelands.  Nowadays farmers and their families turn derelict farmhouses into smart boutique properties to welcome guests for a more hands-on experience. Babylonstoren was a particular treat. The owners have just opened a beautiful guest house in the middle of this working winery, surrounded by the gardens where they grow their own produce. The centre piece on my table was a delicate glass bowl with a raw green cabbage in the centre, something I would never be able to pull off in my home but that seems to fit perfectly at Babylonstoren. Many favour the thrill of the game parks but the Winelands for me were a must-see.

Hermanus is just a two hour drive from the Winelands. Surfing, beach bars and quirky shops turned this retirement town into a lively and fun place once again. I felt a very warm welcome from everyone I met during my stay at Birkenhead House. Unfortunately I was slightly too early for the Whales that come into the area. Maybe next time.

Next on my adventure was the bush which had a lot to live up to. I have travelled to Africa many times and have had some very unique experiences and sightings but the game here was some of the best I have ever seen. The Greater Kruger National Park region is home to many smaller private game reserves. I was surprised to learn at Mala Mala that the reserve used to be one of the leading hunting reserves in Africa. Today cameras replace the guns and the guides have a great sense of pride in what they do. Within the first ten minutes at Singita Boulders Lodge, my guide Leon was able to find a pack of six very well fed wild dogs chasing a frustrated Bull Elephant.  As we careened down the airstrip, the wild dogs and elephant were able to keep up with us, even sometimes passing us. Leon explained that during his 20 years of guiding he had never seen anything quite like that and it was astonishing to hear that he had witnessed something new. Many visitors like to get off the beaten path and explore hidden places no one else has seen, but it was enlightening to know that you can visit places many others have been and still feel you have seen something new.

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