india - scott bearman-brown, Agency sales manager

There are good reasons that a 'classic' itinerary in India is known as such, and they are many and varied. After all, who wouldn't want to experience the sights sounds and, indeed, smells (in the best possible way) of Delhi; the serenity and regal calm of Udaipur; the Pink City of Jaipur and the breath-taking beauty of watching the sun rise over the Taj Mahal in Agra? The people, the landscape, the food, the chaos, the history are all reasons to visit, and return time and again. Extending these journeys to encompass paths less well-trodden adds much, much more to the adventure.

India has long held a fascination for British travellers. Some of you reading this may have family connections in, or are interested in the history of, the sub-continent; others might revel in the provision of the perfect blend of absolute service and discretion, an area in which I believe India excels like no other place on earth. In my case it was always one of those places on my list, but I had just never got around to going there. With hindsight I can't understand what took me so long!

My recent travels took in all of the places mentioned above, and also Ranthambore National Park in the hope of spotting wild Bengal tigers, the fabled deserted Mughal city of Fatehpur Sikri, and the wonderfully unique city of Hyderabad - a particular delight for me as it's the home of the Biriyani!

Whenever possible, seeing a country at ground level always comes with greater rewards than flying from place to place. To this end we were delighted to travel aboard the Maharajas' Express for two days of the 8-day Princely India journey from Mumbai to Delhi. Royal India is the same journey in reverse, while the circular Classical India covers Delhi, Agra, Gwalior, Khajuraho, Bandhavgarh, Varanasi (including a cruise on the River Ganges) and Lucknow before finally returning to Delhi.

But, and this is an important 'but', there is so much more than ticking places off a list. In the words of the poet Sri Chinmoy, 'India is not just a place, India is not just a people.' Sipping masala chai, (literally, 'spiced tea'), whilst watching darkness fall across Hyderabad from the veranda of Falaknuma Palace was a unique feeling. With the drums of a local festival and the calls to prayer wafting to me on the breeze I felt a sensation like never before; this was mine. I did not care that there were over 4 million souls being treated to the same aural beauty; this was mine. If I had wanted to, I could strain to hear the occasional bark from a dog or general buzz of a city, but I chose not to; this was mine. Some might call it spiritual; some may say I was simply enjoying my trip; others may say I was 'in the moment'. It was all of them.

Our A&K guide, sensing how special the moment was, quietly slipped away. 'He must've seen it a million times', I thought, before spotting him with his eyes closed, hands behind his head, and a contented smile on his face. "Penny for your thoughts", I said. "I just love how this country makes me feel", he replied.

I couldn't agree more.

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