On a faraway beach on the shores of Lake Tanganyika, below a vast story-book tropical forest and with the Mahale Mountains soaring majestically behind, the tiny sanctuary of Greystoke Mahale is very possibly heaven on earth. Your home here is one of six wildly exotic open-fronted wooden bandas (cottages), with connected bathrooms and interiors decorated with style and élan. Relax on your own upstairs chill-out deck, spending lazy hours looking out over the lake across the wide soft sands. The highlight of any stay at Mahale is chimpanzee tracking and the priviledge of sharing a few moments with these apes. An early evening sundowner at the bar or on the dhow is the ideal moment to share your encounters, before a beach dinner under the stars.